Thursday, September 20, 2012

Day 29 - Sintra

Today was the most incredible day of my life.

There is a tram stop directly outside the port, and by now we have found out that we don’t have to pay for tickets.  This makes me very nervous, especially with my kind of luck, but we don’t get caught, and I noticed that it’s not just students that hitch rides.  We casually board the tram and get off at our stop without incident.  We walk to a train station we luckily found by accident yesterday (it was by a Starbucks) and took an unbelievably cheap train ride (4€ roundtrip!) to Sintra in search of something we saw on a postcard yesterday.

As usual by now, we wander out of the train station without a map and guess the best direction to go.  Immediately, we are amazed by pretty views and spectacular vistas, and even the cobblestone walkways were more level.  Then we reached a point where we just stopped and went “Whoa.”  Through a break in the trees, we saw a gigantic green cliff ahead, and at the very top was a castle.  That’s where we wanted to go.  It looked so high up, though, that I had doubts we could even reach it.

We kept walking until we hit the town of Sintra, and took in all its charm.  It had all the conveniences of city life without the nuisance of the city.  We picked a cute, hilly alleyway lined with flowers for lunch.  A note about restaurants in Portugal: whatever you order, they will bring out a sampler dish with tempting appetizers on it.  These are not free.

After lunch, we saw a reliable-looking tour bus and hopped on.  As we watched the bus climb up the cliff and take gutsy sharp turns on the winding road, we were happy we did not choose to take on the cobblestone road by foot.  We arrived somewhere, paid an entry fee, and walked inside a gate.  We kept following the signs for “Palace” and eventually reached the magnificent and ornately-decorated palace from the postcard.  We had found Palãcio da Pena.  The palace was colorfully decorated like a candy house adapted from a fairy tale.  It was even higher up than the castle we had seen atop the cliff, and the views in any direction were breathtaking.



We walked under a big stone arch and found ourselves in a courtyard surrounded by a wall of arches through which we could see the whole landscape of Portugal.  We marveled and took photo after photo.  When we could finally tear our eyes away from the view, we saw someone emerge from a small hole in the wall labeled “Wall Walk.”  Naturally, we went inside.  We found ourselves along a narrow path that traced the outside wall of the castle.  Once again, the wall was low and had gaps.  I made an obnoxious scene and kept close to the wall, but there was nothing along the stones to hold onto anyway.  A million photos later, we emerged through a wall on the other side of the palace.

The inside of the palace was far different from what I expected.  The ceilings were low and the rooms were small, a sharp contrast to Buckingham Palace, but there was just as much detailing in the decorations.  The ceilings had ornate stone paneling and murals with stone relief that looked so realistic we almost didn’t notice it was flat.  The beds looked horribly uncomfortable, but the bathrooms were luxurious and spacious.  I was shocked to find electricity, indoor plumbing, bathtubs, showers, and bidets.  The palace was rather new, built in the 1840s and used well into the 20th century.

We complete our magical day with ice cream and take a train home, followed by a “free” tram to the ship.

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